|Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, es gibt wohl kaum etwas Schöneres als eine reife Flasche dieses Chateaux - und wohl auch kaum ein anderes Chateau, das mit so vielen unterschiedlichen Namen benannt wird: Pichon Lalande, Pichon Comtesse, Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande oder einfach nur "Die Comtesse". Egal wie man dieses Top Chateau betitelt, durch den hohen Merlot-Anteil von bis zu 35 Prozent sind dessen Weine bereits im Jugendstadium enorme Schmeichler. Jahrgänge wie 1983 machen viel Spaß und zeigen, was machbar ist in Bordeaux. Auch 1986 und 1989 zählte Pichon Lalande zu den Jahrgangsbesten in Pauillac. Und in den 90er Jahren legte die Comtesse eine Serie großer Weine hin, die verblüffend ist. In den Weinbergen stehen 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc und 3% Petit Verdot. Das 89 Hektar grosse Chateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, dessen Geschichte bis in das 17. Jahrhundert zurückreicht, gehört seit dem Jahr 2007 den Inhabern des Champagnerhauses Roederer. Gleich nach der Übernahme ließen die neuen Inhaber alles renovieren, aber damit nicht genug. Schon 2012 steckten sie noch einmal rund 15 Millionen Euro in das Château, um es auf den neuesten Stand zu bringen. Die Weine reifen im Schnitt für 18 Monate in zur Hälfte neuen Barriques.
92-94 THE WINEADVOCATE: "Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2019 Reserve de la Comtesse hits the ground running with aromas of warm black and red plums, stewed cherries and mulberries wafting out of the glass plus hints of spice cake, violets, bouquet garni and Ceylon tea. The medium to full-bodied palate appears a bit weightier than the grand vin, with more open-knit, richer fruit at this youthful stage, delivering a plush texture and plenty of freshness, finishing with lingering notes of plum preserves."
92-94 WINE ENTHUSIAST: "This is already a very approachable wine. With its touches of spice behind the black currant fruits, the wine is a fine example of this vintage, fruit and a warm structure. Like all good second wines, it will develop relatively quickly."
93 DECANTER: "his is well structured and approaches 2010 in terms of its weight and depth of fruit. Deep spiced damson on the nose, you would be hard pressed not to say that this is as good as very many Cru Bourgeois 1st wines. Huge depth, similar to the 2018 but a little higher acidity, a little less round, a little more classic Pauillac in character. This is confident and serious with lots of tannins. A great 2nd wine, and a reminder of the consistently successful winemaking that is happening at this estate."
92-94 ANTONIO GALLONI: "The 2019 Réserve de la Comtesse is conspicuously deep in colour. The bouquet takes time to unfurl with exceedingly pure blackberry, raspberry and cassis aromas, the oak seamlessly integrated. The palate is very well balanced with fresh acidity, fine grain tannins, a touch of salinity developing towards the finish that has more grip than previous vintages. Superb." - Neal Martin
91-93 ANTONIO GALLONI: "Réserve de la Comtesse is especially fine in 2019. Wonderfully dark, fleshy and inviting, the Réserve is just striking today. A rush of dark red/purplish fruit builds effortlessly in the glass. More than anything else, the Réserve impresses for its sensual, inviting personality. It is an ideal second wine that is approachable and avoids being excessively serious, as some recent editions have been.
General Manager and Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau describes 2019 as a year of drought, until rains arrived at the end of July and middle of August, which were very important for the maturation of the Cabernets in mid-October. Yields were 42 hectoliters per hectare, which is typical for the château. Glumineau added that the Merlots showed a wider range of quality, while the Cabernets were more homogeneous. In tasting, I found the two wines more differentiated stylistically, which has not often been the case."
91-93 THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Elegant, refined, fresh and floral, the medium-bodied wine is silky in texture with a gorgeous sense of purity in the fruit. This was made from blending 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, reaching 14.3% alcohol. This is a nice, forward, scaled-down version of the Grand Vin that you can enjoy while waiting for Pichon Lalande to mature."