Renommierter könnten die Nachbarn von Vieux Chateau Certan, unter Insidern als VCC bezeichnet, nicht sein. Petrus, Petit Village, Evangile, La Conseillante. Vieux Chateau Certan verkörpert die Tradition in Perfektion. Die Gärung findet nach wie vor in großen Holzfässern statt, der Ausbau erfolgt in max. 50% neuem Holz. Der sehr zurückhaltende Alexandre Thienpoint leitet das Gut seiner Familie, zu dessen Besitztümern auch Chateau Le Pin gehört. Die Produktion beträgt lediglich 5.000 Kisten jährlich, viel zu wenig um die vielen Anhänger zufrieden zu stellen. Interessant am Vieux Chateau Certan ist der relativ hohe Anteil an Cabernet Sauvignon und Cabernet Franc, in der Summe bis zu 40%. Im Jahrgang 1998 allerdings hatte der Wein über seine normalen 60% hinaus mehr als 90% Merlot. Seit dem Jahrgang 2003 steht nun auch ein komplett neuer, architektonisch traumhaft entworfener Keller zur Verfügung.
LIMITIERT!
Was für ein Wein, was für ein Weingut! Kniefall und tiefste Verbeugung vor den Weinen, die das Vater-Sohn Gespann der Thienponts hier seit Jahren auf den Markt bringen. Und das mit einer fast schon provozierend ruhigen Art. Hier spricht man nicht viel, hier macht man. Dass sich das, wie so oft im Leben, auch im Weinbereich auszahlt, merken Sie im Glas. Leider sind wir so limitiert.
97-100 THE WINEADVOCATE: "Very deep purple-black in color, the 2019 Vieux Château Certan slowly opens out to reveal a heart-stopping perfume of red roses, kirsch, black raspberries, violets and star anise over a powerful core of plum preserves, blueberry pie and boysenberries plus hints of cardamom, sandalwood and Ceylon tea. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is achingly graceful, featuring tightly wound layers of crunchy blue and black fruits with tannins so ripe and finely grained, you really have to look for them. The acidity here is absolutely seamless, and the finish explodes into an array of mineral sparks. Be prepared to fall head over heals for this one."
18+ JANCIS ROBINSON: "Dark crimson hue. Complex and intense on the nose with dark fruit, tea and floral notes. Oak just perceptible but well integrated. Touch of sweetness on the attack (oak again?) but the palate remains juicy, lively and fresh, the tannins rounded and refined. A classic VCC that’s sapid and digeste, the finish long, dry and clean."
97 DECANTER: "A wonderful wine, great depth of black fruit but extremely balanced, lace and satin. The aromatics open up almost immediately to show raspberry and redcurrant fruits. It´s extremely complete; but mainly it just makes you want to enjoy it - no aggression to these tannins. 66% new oak, all the estate´s Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes are here (with the 2nd wine 100% Merlot), and it surely helps give this sapidity and flavoursome savoury character. 3.75pH. A yield of 42hl/ha, so a good quantity, around the same as in 2018."
98-99 JAMES SUCKLING: "The nose is so beautiful, offering dried flowers, white pepper and other spices. Yet,there’s also bright, blue fruit. Tar, too. Love the depth of fruit here. The wine flows across the palate with so well integrated tannins. You just want to drink it. Glorious. The cabernet in this makes it almost Medoc-like. A blend of 78% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 7% cabernet sauvignon."
96-98 ANTONIO GALLONI: "The 2019 Vieux Château Certan is deep in colour. It has a fabulous, very intense nose that explodes from the glass with billowing scents of black cherries, freshly shaved black truffles, raspberry and light rose petal aromas. The palate is so sensual and seductive on the entry, its creamy texture irresistible and completely disguising the structure underneath. Interestingly this VCC really comes into its own after 12-hours of opening, revealing more quintessential Pomerol characteristics and more grip on the finish. Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont fashioned a brilliant follow-up to the glorious 2018." - Neal Martin
95-97 ANTONIO GALLONI: "The 2019 Vieux Château Certan is a heady, rich wine that captures all of the exoticism of the year. Crème de cassis, graphite, crushed rocks, lavender and spice are some of the many aromas and flavors that run through the 2019. This is an especially ripe, unctuous style for VCC. It will be interesting to see what aging brings, as there is plenty of grip and structure underneath a core of dense fruit that remains remarkably primary."
98-100 THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Flowers, black raspberry, plum liqueur, truffle, wet earth, forest floor and cherry blossoms are in the nose. Rich, intense, full-bodied, deep and velvety, the wine is loaded with dark chocolate, black cherries and the essence of dark plums. The decadent finish sticks with you for close to 60 seconds, which is a good thing, because the wine is so texturally sensual, you do not want it to end. Blending 78% Merlot with 15% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine reached 14.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.75. Picking took place September 23 -September 27 for the old vine Merlot and October 2-October 3 for the Cabernet. The wine is aging in about 67% new, French oak barrels."
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